Thursday, February 26, 2009

Vanilla Shirt

vanilla shirt front

Inspiration: I ordered the fabric to make a skirt, but when I touched it I realized that it was too lightweight for anything other than a tiered skirt. And I don't particularly like tiered skirts. I decided to make a long-sleeved shirt instead. Actually, I need tops more than I need skirts right now, so it worked out well.

Pattern and Modifications: McCall's 5138, view F. I added sleeve cuff ruffles from McCall's 4922 (now out-of-print, but this one is similar). I wanted a double-layer ruffle, but that pattern makes a hemmed single-layer ruffle. So I only used it for the width (i.e., the edge sewn into the cuff seam). The depth is 3-1/4", which when pressed in half makes a 1" deep ruffle with a 5/8" seam allowance.

I also traced the bodice neckline from 4922 onto 5138 so that I could use the stand collar pieces from 4922. Got that?!?

Fabric: 100% cotton featherwale corduroy from Fabric.com

Interfacings and Notions:
  • lightweight sew-in interfacing
  • eight clear 1/2" buttons
  • beige 100% rayon 1/2" seam binding
vanilla cuff detail

Notes:
All French seams except armscye. For that I used seam binding as for my trellis blouse; however, it worked better the first time than the second! I think it had to do with the corduroy being too lightweight. The blue lawn I used was lightweight, too, but much more stable, and it was underlined with batiste. Not sure what I'll do if I make another featherwale corduroy shirt... maybe just hand-overcast the armscyes.

I'm a little unhappy with the sleeve length: I probably could have taken 3/4" or so out. I wasn't trying for the bloused-sleeve look! I didn't make a muslin because I've used the pattern before -- just not with long sleeves. I've never before had reason to think I have short arms, so my guess is that it's the pattern.

Conclusion: I like how this turned out as a sort of tailored poet's blouse; I can dress it up or down depending on what else I wear. Once I tweak this pattern some more it will be a great go-to shirt for me.

3 comments:

Serena said...

It's lovely. The featherwale corduroy is yummy. Wonderful!

Kelley said...

This is a gorgeous shirt. I totally love the ruffles around the cuffs. Very stylish.

Anna said...

Thanks so much, ladies!